Pearl Grading

 

Pearls are the birthstone of June.  They are one of the classic gems that symbolize everything from virtue to chastity, purity and wisdom. 

 

Although there is no official quality grading system for pearls (like the 4C¢s for diamonds), there are several major elements to grade a pearl for quality and price.  If you would like to shop for pearls, it is important that you know more about it before making your decision. 

 

1.      Size

 

Since there are so many important factors to consider when you want to buy pearls, size is normally a good jumping off point for your decision-making.

 

Pearls can range from under 1mm to 20mm or more.  For most round pearls, the most popular size resides somewhere between 7mm and 7.5mm. The larger the pearl, the more valuable it is.

 

Each of the main types of pearls has a common range of sizes:

 

Freshwater pearls :  3 mm ¡V 12 mm

Saltwater pearls    :  8 mm ¡V 18mm or larger.

 

2.      Luster

 

The surface shine that gives pearls their unique glow is known as its luster. The quality of a pearl¡¦s nacre gives the lustrous quality for which pearls are renowned.  The sharper the reflection of light on a pearl¡¦s surface, the more luster it has. 

 

a)      Low luster pearls appear milky or chalky.

b)      High luster pearls reflect light well and show mirror-like reflections.

 

Put your pearls on a white surface or a white cloth near a window on a reasonably bright day and see how the pearls reflect the window frame. The clearer the reflection, the more lustrous the pearls.

 

Since a very lustrous baroque pearl is probably more desirable than a round milky pearl, lustre is generally considered to be one of the most important aspects of a pearl¡¦s grading and valuation.

 

3.      Nacre Quality 

Nacre, also known as mother-of-pearl, is the basic substance which is secreted by oysters and mollusks to form the inside of their shells.  When nacre secretions are deposited around a foreign substance which has invaded the mollusk's body, they build up to form a pearl.

The structure of the nacre is composed of layers of calcium carbonate crystals and conchiolin. This distinctive nacre structure influences the color, luster, durability and elasticity of the pearl.  The thickness of the nacre, which often determines how durable the pearl will be over time.  The thicker the nacre, the stronger and longer lasting the pearl provided that it is taking good care.

 

4.       Shape 

 

No two pearls are the same!  Pearls come in a fascinating variety of shape because they are organic gems.  However, round shape is generally the most popular shape even though only about 1% is a actually perfect sphere. 

 

The rounder the pearl, the more valuable it is.   There are three shapes which experts use to categorize Pearls.

 

a)         Spherical Pearls ¡V They are round or almost round in shape, which is traditionally the most desirable shape.

 

b)    Symmetrical Pearls ¡V They have shapes that have symmetry from one side to another, e.g. pear, button or oval.  But they are not round.

 

c)    Baroque Pearls ¡V They are irregularly shaped.  They are often the least expensive category of pearls, but are still unique and beautiful.

 

5.       Surface Quality

 

Like gemstones, pearls have imperfections.  The fewer blemishes a pearl has, the more valuable it is.  Blemishes are marks, bumps or little potholes which, in reality, give each strand its unique identifying factors.

 

To find pearls without blemishes is rare and their price is likely to be astronomical, given other quality factors being high. One has to remember, pearls are organically grown and just like the human body, no two are exactly alike.  Think of blemishes on pearls as moles or fingerprints. 

 

6.       Color

 

Pearls come in a wide range of natural colors/shades.  The major color classifications are white, pink, silver, cream, gold and black.

 

Besides the body color, in more expensive pearls you will usually find color overtones.  Finer quality pearls have an overtone, which usually appears toward the outside edge of the pearl.  This can be rose, green or blue.  Regardless of the color or shading, you should look for pearls with a deep, rich color that seems to come from within the gem.

 

Color is a matter of personal taste and is often selected on the grounds of whether it suits the wearer¡¦s skin tone or not.  Cream and gold colors are believed to suit dark and olive skins, while some feel whites and pinks are more suitable for Caucasians and Asians.

 

7.       Matching

 

It is critical that the pearls in any strand or piece of jewelry be evenly matched in terms of their size, shape, color, luster, etc.  Visible variations of these qualities not only affect the piece¢s beauty, but its value.

 

Contact Us

 

For any further queries, please feel free to contact us by email, cs@supreme-gems.com.

 

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